Cosmetics, Volume 9, Issue 4 , 01/08/2022

Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review

Lord Sam Liston, Precious Lorraine Rivas, Pajaree Sakdiset, Gerard Lee See, Florencio Arce

Abstract

This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log P (cLog P) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD<inf>50</inf> values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog P values for porcine (r = 0.114) and rabbit (r = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (r = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (r = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (n = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.

Document Type

Review

Source Type

Journal

Keywords

ascorbic acidchemical permeation enhancercosmeticsskin permeationsystematic reviewvitamin C

ASJC Subject Area

Chemical Engineering : Chemical Engineering (miscellaneous)Medicine : DermatologyBiochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology : AgingPharmacology, Toxicology and Pharmaceutics : Pharmaceutical ScienceMedicine : Surgery


Bibliography


Liston, L., Rivas, P., Sakdiset, P., See, G., & Arce, F. (2022). Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review. Cosmetics, 9(4) doi:10.3390/cosmetics9040085

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